Inexorable!

Daywalkers. That's what we laughingly called the pilgrims who, practically skipping down the Camino, paid to have their mochilas bused from town to town, carrying only a light day pack during the day. "Must be nice," we thought. Strong, but still burdened by our packs, we felt as though we were proving more, suffering more and therefore deserving more than these tourist pilgrims. Ah, terrible judgmental-ism. But as always, where you feel negative towards something external, it invariably means there is something internal you need to address. So, I had to cut through my own crap, and evolve further from my own ego. Who was I to say that they were "wrong" and I was "right." El Camino has religious origins, but it also happens to be a beautiful, well-maintained, facility laden long walk through Spain. What if you simply desired a walking holiday, and the Camino sounded just fine. Caminar, means "to walk," and camino can mean "I walk" or "way." So I walk. Everyday. And so do the daywalkers. It's something incredible we all have decided to do with our precious spare time in the stress filled modern day, and everyone should be lauded for trying the simpler life of walking, talking, eating and sleeping. It's the pilgrim, or the walkers, Way. 

Rested, and a few pounds heavier from all the good eats in Leon, Kelsey and I recommenced our Camino with a civil 22 km walk in the sun to Mazarife. The weather is imperceptibly changing day by day. We can see our breath bloom into fog in the morning and are in short sleeves by midday. As we climb higher into Galicia, the weather promises to be fiercer and more temperamental. 

The path diverged a few kilometers outside of Leon, and we had a choice. Commit to two days along the busy N-120 highway or along a overall 5 km longer natural path. We chose the natural path, and were richly rewarded with quiet, peaceful land, transitioning before our very eyes from Meseta to gently rolling foothills. 

Kelsey has decided on her Camino motto, or rather word: inexorable. Not to be construed in any negative context, but that we are simply moving forward. Not time, kilometers, injury or doubt can stop us. We move forward one step at a time, up hill after hill, around countless bends, from one town to the next, we are inexorable. It is like life, time does not stop, and really isn't this a blessing? I may be so perfectly happy in a single moment, and wish it to never go away, but I must console myself in my bright bubble of bliss that this feeling will happen again. And when times are sad or difficult, I will need to take solace that such feelings will pass, that I will once again feel my restless spirit at peace. So yes, many things are inexorable, and my endeavor to be "in the now" has given me the gift of feeling deeply every step and breath and thought of this journey.

Mazarife was a wonderful stop. We have clearly moved on from the economically depressed, population 60, towns of the Meseta and back into an area more reminiscent of our Camino prior to Burgos. After a wonderful breakfast of toast with butter and jam, homemade churros and hot chocolate (mixed with a tiny bit of coffee) it was any earlier start to Astorga. The night sky was brimming full of stars as we walked, the Big Dipper hanging low in the sky. 

The black cow walked up to us and licked our hands. Such gentle beasts!

What a perfect walking day! A wide red dirt path through trees and fields, cool and sunny. We filled our 31.2 km walk with conversations on books, friends and writing. It still amazes me that Kelsey and I have had such an effortless time becoming fast friends. It seems we always have stories to tell each other, lessons to teach each other. I am so grateful for her on the Camino. 

Astorga is a wonderful little city! Our municipal albergue is the best in a long time; gracious, clean, wifi and a kitchen! We were able to create our long overdue hobo meal of salad and beans. 

We are now exactly 2/3 complete with our walk to Santiago. I actively cannot believe that we are even half way done, much less with only 11 days left of walking. Two weeks from now, Kelsey's will be flying home and I will be...I'm not sure yet. I still hope to walk to Finisterre, however, the weather is so unpredictable this time of year, it may just be three days of walking in the rain to a foggy coast. So no stress, no expectations. 

Tomorrow is going to be a beautiful day to walk, on this long evolving walk of the Camino.