Tuscany, the land of David and divine eats. Upon arriving into Rome on Monday morning, Maks swooped me and we headed straight to wine country. Before returning to the fabulous flat in Montepulciano that Maks routinely spends his weekends (his heart is forever in Tuscany), we had two wine tastings, pici (Tuscan pasta...think Italians do udon), and I had charged $1000 to my credit card for approximately 100 bottles of wine. So basically I had exceeded my entire budget for Italy within 6 hours. Fortunately (or maybe unfortunately) the wine is not for me, but after putting close to $2000 on his credit card for wine, Maks' card was wisely shut off by Navy Federal. Before you start judging both Maks and I, none of this wine was for us, but special orders from American friends. If you had a friend as crazy charismatic as Maks, who is chummy with some of the most talented wine makers in Tuscany, you would have him go to the source for you too. I also learned an obscene amount of intricate knowledge regarding wine making, specifically in the miracle that is brunello. In all, we visited Vasco Sassetti (met stoic Massimo and his wild vineyard dog Rocco), Il Palazzone ( and received a world class education on wine and olive oil from Laura - she made me take a shot of olive oil, with a wine chaser), and Tenuta Valdipiatta (with lovely Miriam and a family crest that looks like a wave at Sunset Beach).
Massimo, Rocco, and our pallet of wine.
Laura directing our order.
Brunello and a shot of two day old olive oil.
For dinner, we went to a place Maks has determined is worth the trip to Tuscany alone: Osteria Acquacheta. Steps from his flat in Montepulciano, we were swept into the warmth and aroma of mouth watering Italian cooking. Sitting family style, sandwiched between both locals and tourists, Maks was greeted like the regular he is, with double kisses all around. Leaving the ordering to Maks, we were soon devouring two plates of melted fresh pecorino, one with truffle shavings, the other with pears. We followed this with TWO plates of pasta each: tagliatelle with freshly picked mushrooms, and pici with chili and garlic. Holy s*%t. Please everyone come here. Then it was custard with truffle shavings for dessert...seriously! Oh Italy, I have arrived.
Pici.
Giulio, Anna, Chiara, Maks and I at Osteria Acquacheta.
Attempting to walk off our meal around town, we came upon the piazza grande, and it seemed rather familiar. Ah yes, (Monika this is for you...) it was the piazza from the Twilight movie. Maks and I promptly re enacted the scene of Bella saving Edward.
Piazza at night.
By day.
Good thing we were stuffed to the brim, when after an hour long Skype session with the beautiful, indomitable Kate, we realized we had to carry 272 bottles of wine up three flights of stairs to Maks' flat. Pouring sweat, off balance with our belly's all out, we blasted the new Lady Gaga and struggled through the task. Finally around 0130, we collapsed with high hopes of waking up at 0630 to be in Florence at 0830 and thus avoid long lines.
Arising the next morning at 0930 (ha) and letting Maks sleep until 1200 (ha!) we finally departed Montepulciano at 1300. Oh but it was all so perfect! We arrived in the most wonderful city, with its wide streets, sweeping piazzas, and enough breathtaking art to make anyone's heart burst. We found free street parking close to the action, and made our first of three gelato stops for the day (according to Maks, Florence is the only place that has any gelato worth eating...) First was the famous, Antica Gelataria Fiorentina with its signature three flavors of strawberry, ambrosia (my favorite) and persimmon. It was enough to almost make me weep.
Now, I have secretly been in love with a certain man since the tender age of 14. His beauty is unsurpassed, he is both strong and vulnerable, delicate and bold. He stands where no one can touch him, and is the most perfect specimen in the world. I am talking about Michelangelo's David. Oh be still my wild heart. After gaining entry in an absurdly short 15 minute line, I laid my eyes again upon him. Speechless, I circled around his being, minute upon beautiful minute. I had Maks witness my profusion of love and witness as close to an engagement as you can with an inanimate object. I would never have left, but anther spectacular Florence adventure awaited.
Pictures are not allowed of the actual David, but here is imposter David in front of the Uffizi.
Momentos of my love.
Walking past pedestrian streets lined with Prada, Gucci, and all things froufrou, we made our way to the unmistakable Florentine Duomo. Timing it quite splendidly, due to our late start, we climbed the 463 steps to the pinnacle dome in time to see the sun sink below the horizon. Ah, perfection.
Contemplatation.
After the walk back down, we meandered through the streets, second gelato in hand (dark chocolate) and went to the Italian gold market Ponte Vecchio. Glitter aside, it was a breathtaking.
Dinner at Porcospino was outrageously good. Maks greeted Franco, the exaggerated waiter, like old friends and we left it in his capable hands to bring out delicious vegetarian dishes. Lingering over a hilarious meal (Maks is quite hilarious) we were entertaining all of the patrons around us. The only down side, is we were sitting in close proximity to a basket of gourmet meats and cheeses and I was being stared down by a slab of lard for over two hours.
As we walked back to the car to make the 90 minute drive back to Montepulciano, we had our final gelato of the day. Bacio, a chocolate, hazelnut kiss. Bellisima!
Waking up the next morning, at a much more reasonable 1100, we decided a lovely walk through Tuscany was in order. So post lunch at Osteria Acquachet, and more pici, this time with pomodoro sauce, we began the 8 km walk to Montefollonico. Our belly's full, it was a little like we tottered there, but we started feeling fit and fast on our way back. Trotting down a rolling Tuscan hill, we decided to off road, just a little, and shortcut it through a benign looking group of trees. Forty-five minutes later, after a series of controlled falls through spider filled, prickly bush thickets, being ultimately defeated by a gorge requiring a Tarzan leap of faith, and then scrambling back up the hill we just descended, depending life and soul on the strength of tree roots, we were back on the road to Montepulciano. Also, Maks probably got slapped by poison ivy.
Making a food venture for burnello risotto (that's right, risotto made with wine), we drove an hour of winding roads to Il Giglio in Montalcino. Sated and fully in love with the beauty of Tuscany, it was back to Montepulciano for our last night.
Waking up this morning, we preceded to carry the 272 bottles of wine back down the 3 flights of stairs. After a latte with honey, which I envisioned as a delicious blend of coffee, honey and steamed milk, and was actually steamed milk solo with a pot of honey, we were back at, where else, Osteria Acquachet for lunch. Pici with chili and garlic for me, and this for Maks:
My heart broke a little at this, and it was probably the most educational and guilt ridden meal of Maks' life.
Now the three hour drive back to Naples and my chica Molly.
Happy Halloween!
