Valpo!

Valpo has a subtle way of fooling you when initially meeting her. The dogs wandering the streets, looking up at you with melancholy eyes and gently wagging tails. Intensely pungent pockets of smell lying in wait at nearly every corner, side street, and patch of grass. Blemished and pockmarked facades of once-grand building, next to gray or tan blockhouses of the most uncreative variety. A place where rich and poor live down the street from one other, of overtly dangerous neighborhoods blocks from a $200 lunch. It takes a moment to look beyond the chaos of the train station, and dodgy stairs of various loafers, to hear the piano playing from the upper window of an apartment building. From the death defying 130 years old funicular, to the pride and might of the Naval Museum, Valpo revealed herself to us, enthralling Michael and I in her rich beautiful soul. 

"Dancing Magician and Curious Dog"

Immediately upon arriving back in Valpo Friday evening, we were late. After hailing a taxi, climbing the Cerro Bellavista to our Hotel Natura, and quickly dumping our bags, we were back out the door headed to Vina del Mar. A 20 minute car ride, but worlds away. Palm trees and canals lined the wide boulevards, while gleaming white casinos and hotels lined the water. Brightly lit, humming, golden restaurants and bars grew like weeds. Our taxi dropped us in front of our destination, Glasgow Pub and we met with a work acquantaince of Michael’s. After three hours of “sea stories” and surprisingly good food, we were in a micro on our way back to Valpo. The system of public transportation in Chile, while highly developed in Santiago, is still a bit insane in Valpo. Micros, a mixture of a bus and van, careen around corners, nearly sideswiping each other to get to established route stops first in order to collect the fare of more passengers. As a result, beware when crossing any street, prepare to be crushed like sardines into the micro, and hold on for dear life as you go from 100 km per hour to 0 as the driver crushes the brake at a red light. Cruising along, we didn’t realize we had missed our stop until we were passing the port on our way up into the Cerros. Since it was 1 in the morning, and we were in no position to be getting off in one of the most dangerous parts of town, we stayed put. Fifteen minutes later we were on top of the hill at the end of the line, and our driver was trying to figure out what to do with two lost gringos. In a gesture of good will, he drove us back to a semi well lit area of the hill, and let us out. Honking his horn, we managed to flag down a colectivo (a 50% cab, 50% bus) and were informed that we were in one of the most irreuptable areas of town. Finally at 2 in the morning, we passed out in our nautically themed room, an almost exact replica of a lush U.S. Navy stateroom. 

The Saturday that followed was one of the most spectacular touring days I have ever experienced. Our hotel kicked off the morning with massive English style breakfast complete with avocado for the eggs, and honey for the toast. A block and a half from our hotel is the simply astounding La Sebastiana, the house that Pablo Nerudo lived in and was the inspiration for many works that led to the Nobel Prize. In his words:

"I built the house. First, I made it of air. Then, I raised the flag in the air and left it hanging from the sky, from the light and darkness." 

Like a multiered wedding cake, this house climbs from the hill, with panoramic vistas of the entire bay available from new and unique vantage points in every nook, cranny and sitting chair. His collection of toys and peculiarities fill the rooms with a distinctive flow of color, wonders both absurd and profound. The genius and mirth of this great man is apparent in the poetry of his home, and it felt a great honor to have been, even in a small way, in his presence.

Unfortunately, no pictures were allowed inside.

Trading one art form for another, Michael and I embarked on a walking tour of the Open Sky Museum, a series of 20 murals painted throughout Cerro Bellavista. First established in the early 90s and solidifying Valpo's life of street art, the murals have now spawned into every neighborhood in Valpo. Walking through every neighborhood and hidden staircase, some with every available wall face covered in colorful imagery, the reality of the ever changing face of the city is evident. It's an evolution of sorts, as entertaining as it is a curious. 

The 130 years old Cerro Concepcion funicular was our next stop. Sadly, most of the beautiful, historic funiculars of Valparaiso are in a state of total neglect:

But the few that are still in use contribute to Valparaiso's status as a UNESCO World Heritage site. The creaky, and surprisingly swift ascent up the most visited area of Valparaiso was like stepping into the past. The iron turnstile and wooden pew to collect money, the system of wheels and pulleys. All are largely unchanged since the 1880s.

This is actually a defunct funicular by the Naval Museum...

Emerging onto Cerro Concepcion, we were met with countless art galleries, hip restaurants, vagabond hostels and high end hotels. How very different from the plazas of random personalities below by the port! We made our way to Cafe Turri, and experienced the most languidly, delicious lunch of our lives. Sipping wine, overlooking the bay and feasting on local food, we celebrated this time we are able to spend together. 

Walking off our lunch, we strolled until evening in and out of the web of galleries. Cerro Concepcion gave way to Cerro Alegre as we climbed higher and higher. One painting I discovered was actually physically painful to walk away from, but, alas, art is expensive! I will enjoy the street art for now.

The next morning we walked to the Naval Museum, where Michael was able to give in fully to his secret love of beautiful wooden, model sailing vessels. Fully educated on Chile's major naval battles, we returned to Cerro Concepcion for a late lunch before catching our bus to Santiago. 

The rush of the weekend and heat of the day sapped our energy, but we were rewarded with my favorite food in all the world upon our return to the city:

Acai bowl!

Another memory filled, awe inspiring weekend. Sadly, Michael must leave for Guatemala this weekend, and I will be continuing to Buenos Aires. But in this moment, I am so happy, and living for everyone that I love.