Guatemala is a beautiful country, but it is also rough. The gap between rich and poor is one of the most extreme I have ever witnessed. Lush greenery clashes with shanty towns ruled by narcos. Bright and exotic tapestries are peddled by Mayan children in the street. Foreign hippies sing or beg for money in touristy Antigua alongside the poor Gautemalans. There is a definite edginess that I find so very different from the many places I have visited. And yet, all the people I have met have greeted me with such warmth. So even though I cannot go for a walk alone at night in the City, I am loving living here.
The view from Michael's apartment. At night, it is a sea of lights.
Friday night, Michael and I met up with the Ochoa’s and Sanchez’s, sans kids (date night!) for dinner and a movie. I experienced one of the most luxurious movie going experiences of my life, complete with reclining black leather sofas (for two of course) and food and drinks delivered by a waiter. All this for only $10! Sadly, and ironically, Michael and I had a conversation on the way to the high end mall and movie theater about the significance of $10. A Guatemalan that works as a driver for the MILGRP (where Michael works), supplements his wage by spending 12 hours every Saturday and Sunday driving a chicken bus (a recycled American school bus, spewing exhaust, and driving EXTREMELY dangerously) to destinations outside of Guatemala City. Each 12 hour day, he earns $10.
After a lazy morning of coffee and conversation, Michael and I headed to Antigua, once the capital of Guatemala. An ancient (as it’s name implies) city, it is the a popular destination for tourists, drawn in by 5 star hotels, cobblestone streets, restored churches, colonial Spanish ruins, and shopping for those who can afford it. In the heat of the day, Michael and I strolled the streets, taking in the textiles, iron work and ceramics that Antigua is famous for.
This city is truly grand, with plazas, tree lined cobblestone streets and a constant energy of festivity. We explored the converted grand Spanish convent Casa Santo Domingo that is now a luxury hotel and museum. Perusing the countless shops, we brainstormed a dream house with a kitchen of ceramic tiles, walls adorned with colorful art, floors covered in woven rugs and a courtyard full of flowers and fountains. Maybe we were getting a little ahead of ourselves... In any case, we left Antigua with a hammock and our bellies full of a delicious lunch and this:
The view from the restaurant Tartines in Antigua.
Sunday morning, Michael had to leave for a week-long conference in Florida. Fortunately, I am hard at work each day completing applications for grad school, so I am keeping myself busy. Sunday dragged a bit, however, and I decided to take a long walk along the Avenida de America.
A noble bulldog tolerating a playful puppy.
Every Sunday, they shut down one side of this boulevard, combining it with the park that runs down it’s center for all sorts of wonderful pedestrian activities. It was fantastic, and a concept that should be adopted in every city. People were out in droves with their dogs and tricycle-riding children. Volunteers in neon vests staffed water stations and recycle bins. Giant motivation signs plastered to the street kept walkers and runners moving to the next one. The air was filled with the scent of barbeque, pineapple, and occasional dog poop. The road was closed for over two miles, and I walked along its entire length, people and dog watching while enjoying the shade of the trees.
Rounding back towards Michael’s apartment, I stopping at a café for a lemonade and sandwich before returning home to bake cookies and watch “A King’s Speech.”
I am exploring and learning, gaining perspective and living. I have almost three weeks until I have to head down to the Southernn tip of Argentina for my next adventure, and I am busy soaking in the Guatemalan spirit.
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