Road Trip Israel!

Behind the wheel (for the first time since traveling!) of a tiny Chevy manual, we set out from Tel Aviv on May 1st to Ceasarea. These ancient ruins, situated an hour north of Tel Aviv, are set dramatically along the Mediterranean. Brilliant location and city planning skills for this Roman city, Byzantine capital and Crusader base. We arrived at the ancient Roman aqueduct north of the ruins a few hours before sunset, and explored until the sun set over the sea. 

The next morning, after a hotel splurge, we returned to the site of the Roman ruins south of the aqueduct, meandering through tiled bathhouses, gladiator stables and public latrines. I can only imagine the splendor of this city, and wonder that such a place could have been left abandoned and to ruins in history. 

Leaving Ceasarea, we drove past Haifa and to the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Akko. Clotheslines draped with brightly lit fabric crisscrossing across the tightly winding cobblestone streets, combined with smells of spice and Turkish delight, gives this port town an ancient but lived in feel. In the Old City we walked through the Hospitallers' Quarters, a 12th century Knight fort, where we learned of the thousands old history of this town. Crouching through the Templars Tunnel, we emerged by the ancient port and took a route through the souk (falafel time!) to our Chevy ride and headed to our destination for the evening, Nazareth.

In the Templars tunnel.

Had to do it. 

Navigating through the confusion and congestion into the old city of Nazareth, we found our fantastic hostel, Samira, steps from the Basilica of the Annunciation. As the largest church in the Middle East, the Basilica houses the grotto believed to be Mary's home and where the angel Gabriel appeared to her before Jesus' conception. I recognize the religious significance of this place, especially for Catholics, and I witnessed many tears of emotion of those visiting the church and grotto. However. I was more taken with the modern feel of this church with its dozens of murals depicting Mary from around the world. The church felt inclusive, more like a testimonial of the sameness of Catholics around the world despite any differences of culture.

Which country depicted Mary in 3-D emerging as a silver warrior from a technicolor field of fire? U.S.A.

From Nazareth, we started driving north and inland to the Golan Heights, swinging through Tiberias along the Sea of Galilee towards the Tel Dan Nature Reserve. On our way we took a chocolate break in Rosh Pina, home of the first Zionist pioneers from Romania in 1882. Now it is a gorgeous restored hillside town full of galleries, cafes, and vistas. One of the most poignant stops of our Israeli trip so far was visiting Nimrod Lookout, a magnificent lookout over the vast wild beauty of Galilee. Nimrod was a 28 year old soldier serving in second Lebanon War when he fell in the line of duty. In his grief, Nimrod's father built the memorial site to give a glimpse into the childhood dreams of his son who was born and raised in the Galilee region. Arriving at the Tel Dan Nature Reserve, approximately 2 miles from the border with Syria, we stretched our legs with a walk in this desert oasis. 

We opted to stay in the small town of Katzrin to enjoy the network of trails around the Golan last night, waking this morning to wander around the desert for a few hours. In the words of our Dutch hostel hostess, "you are going to walk into the nothingness." It was beautiful.

Camino, oh, Camino memories. 

Eating an authentic mom and pop shop falafel on our way out of town, we wound around the hills of Golan to Capernaum, home of the ministry of Jesus and then on to the Mt. of Beatitudes, the site of Jesus' Sermon on the Mount. Wandering, and then taking a nap in the cool of the worship structure over the House of St. Peter's, we experienced the archeological site of Capernaum as a once thriving Jewish town. The feeling of Mt. of Beatitudes was in keeping with all of the religious sites, masses of people praying and singing, connecting to the history of a central component in their lives. I read the Sermon for the first time in the place that Jesus delivered it. I felt like my experience was very different from many of the people around me. 

I am having a range of thoughts being in this Holy Land. I am distinctly aware of the religious significance of places with names like Nazareth and Capernaum, and I respect the acts of faith that bring people to these places. To be honest though, my interest does not extend beyond the curiosity of seeing a new place. Kelsey, as a spiritual person in the Christian sense, is experiencing the wonder of being in these holy places. I suppose, the historical significance of Jesus alone makes these places intrinsically important. Maybe I will feel more connected to this spiritual feeling in Jerusalem, with a melding of religions and contemporary and ancient history. 

We are spending this last northern evening on the banks of the Sea of Galilee in Tiberias. Just now, we experienced our second moment of national silence, standing along the water as a siren rang out. This time it is for Memorial Day for the Fallen Soldiers of Israel and Victims of Terrorism. There is much to remember in this wild, beautiful and mystical place. Tomorrow we will trace the border of the West Bank to Jerusalem. Shalom to all.