Where to begin? I am in the Promised Land and I am fulfilling a dream to myself. Tel Aviv, this distinctly modern and ancient city, with its promenade like Venice Beach, street markets, ancient ports, Jewish, Muslim, Christian...it is a city unto its own.
Kelsey and I greeted Tuesday with more wandering. We looped around the city, walking to the posh neighborhood of Neveh Tzedek, and taking part in the Israeli style of stretching a cafe break to a couple of hours lingering over cappuccinos. (Note: I adore Kelsey. She is wisdom and grace. Period.) Neveh Tzedek, peppered with high end galleries, French style patisseries and chic boutiques had me distinctly aware of my traveler ways. Watching young Israelis walk arm in arm down the street in beautiful clothes and perfectly coiffed/distressed hair, it occurred to me how much I have adjusted my lifestyle this year. To be fair, I have flown all over and adventurized in incredibly ways, but I am not keen to buy anything too unnecessary and I am more interested in how bulky clothes are then what they look like. I actually very much enjoy the simplicity of of it all.
Finding our way back to the promenade, we walked south to Jaffa and the oldest port in the world. We wandered through the flea market, Elvis t-shirts next to antique menorahs and Persian rugs. After a delicious lunch of Israeli salads, we wandered the winding streets of Old Jaffa, regarding the many galleries and jewelry stores tucked into sand colored ancient buildings.
Upon returning to our hostel, we met Audrey, a beautiful Maltese girl who we promptly invited to join us for our evening plans. What followed was a journey to glimpse the sensations silence and darkness. We walked back to Jaffa port with Audrey, to the Nalaga'at Center. This large open space is dedicated to the Nalaga'at Theater, a troupe of blind and deaf actors, and Blackout Restaurant, with a staff of blind waiters. We experienced an emotional journey of the hopes and dreams of those that are blind and deaf through the play "Not by Bread Alone," in which the actors baked bread on stage in a symbol of the necessity of more than just physical nourishment to sustain life. It left me feeling at times lonely, sad, hopeful, lucky, connected and ultimately grateful. Both Kelsey and I were wiping away tears throughout the play.
Blackout!
Following an actual breaking of bread with the actors on stage after the performance, we went to Blackout Restaurant, where we entered a standalone structure completely devoid of light. Simply surreal. It may be the darkest place I have ever been. I found myself continually turning my head in some strange need to focus my eyes on something. Flashes of imaginary light played against my eyes, and I became hyper aware of the sounds of laughter and clinking glasses from the tables around us. Without being able to see our food, the tastes and textures meant more. I couldn't be choosy about the mixture of food on my plate. I ate slower, more meaningfully. The conversation between Audrey, Kelsey and I was without external distraction; no phones, no people watching, no daydreaming. We were connecting by way of a loss of visual connection. On our walk back to the hostel along the promenade, looking at the midnight ocean, hearing the waves crash, we understood that we had returned to our world of sight and sound. I want to hold on to this experience forever.
Wednesday was, you guessed it, another day of Tel Aviv strolling, this time down Rothschild St and back to Neveh Tzedek, where I broke down and bought some earrings. More cafe lounging and laughing before a brief rest at the hostel. For dinner, Kelsey and I followed the enthusiastic recommendation of my parents and made reservations at the famous Orna and Ella restaurant. Oh! Just so delicious. Tofu! Veggies! Vegan desserts!
The world is small, and it is amazing the friends you have everywhere. My dad was friends with Bob and Richie growing up in Trenton. Both Bob and Richie moved to Israel as adults and raised beautiful families. The youngest of Bob's daughters, Dahlia is a kindred spirit living in Tel Aviv. So of course, we had to meet. And what a person she is! Like an embodiment of energy, she rolled into Orna and Ella embracing us fully in her arms and launched into conversation and laughter. She captured us with stories of her backpacking and nomadic wandering in Africa for 18 months, traveling South America, her military service, life as an Israeli and so much more.
This morning Kelsey and I made another trip to Orna and a Ella for a fabulous breakfast. Vegan shakshuka! Mind blowing!
On our way back to the hostel we cut through Carmel market for a few pounds of fresh fruit for the road. We are heading north to Caesarea, Akko and the Sea of Galilee. The Israeli adventure continues...
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