West Bank Art

Yesterday, I crossed the wall from Jerusalem to Bethlehem. Physically being in this area of unrest has allowed me to visualize an issue that has always felt so beyond my comprehension. I have heard the names of people and places, read the news, understood a cliff notes version of history, but I felt complacent in my full understanding. Talking to both Israelis and Palestinians, however, and it seems that even those living here grapple with understanding the reality in which they live. Everyone has an opinion, and a hope or dream for the future, but it is an ugly mess. It seems only a collective understanding from the entire spectrum of people living here will cause the issue to be pushed towards a resolution. 

Taking the number 21 bus from the Damascus Gate by the Old City in Jerusalem, Konrad (a brilliantly hilarious Londener we met at our hostel) and I figured we had plenty of time to find Elias, a friend of our Jerusalem guide, on the Bethlehem side of the wall. Unfortunately, we hopped on the wrong bus and  ended up in the city center of Bethlehem 30 minutes late. Bombarded by cab drivers hawking Banksy and Christian sites tours, we firmly directed a driver to bring us to the wall. Ten minutes later, we were dropped off on a random stretch of the graffitied separation wall and began to follow our noses to the checkpoint where we were to meet out guide. At this point I didn't have much hope of finding him, but as we walked through a narrow section by the wall, I made eye contact with a man driving a car right beside us. For whatever reason, I looked into his eyes and said "Elias?" and lo and behold it was him! So completely random. 

Banksy - Armored Peace Dove

Banksy

For the next two hours, Konrad and I learned about the sentiments of the conflict from a peaceful Palestinian perspective. Driving through the streets of Bethlehem, understanding the real day to day frustrations and restrictions of a people, we were able to see life in this confused area. Undoubtedley, there is pain and suffering on all sides of this complex issue, and I can make no judgement on it, as I do not live it. 

Midway through our tour, Elias had to tend to a family issue, and we were passed on to the dynamic, opinionated Yamen, who worked with Banksy's crew in 2005.

Stay Human.

Graffiti near the Aida refuge camp. The black blotch is where a hole was blown through the wall. The hole is about half an inch thick at its thickest point.

Some of the art was rooted in a deep hatred and prejudice, but I felt the majority of the words were words of peace and overcoming the "wall." Additionally, messages were sprayed in a plethora of languages and visual representations. 

Banksy

How and Nosm.

Throughout our tour, I did have the sensation of being an invasive, ignorant tourist. Who am I to come to this place and take pictures of Banksy art? It made me feel elitist and wrong. But alternatively, that is why the art is there...to expose a message to the masses. I had the comparatively unique experience of crossing over into the West Bank and glimpsing a little of what life is like...although very, very little. As Yamen took us to the pedestrian checkpoint to cross back over into Jerusalem, I felt deeply that I need to educate myself more. I have seen with my own eyes and I have passed on what I saw here, but there is more to learn and witness.

Banksy.

I REFUSE TO BE YOUR ENEMY.