The 11 Essentials: The Daily Life of a Pilgrim

Albergues

An albergue in St. Jean with mochilas at the ready.

The albergue is where we seek shelter each night. Many, like the one we are resting in tonight, are converted monasteries or cloisters. Each has its own personality and particulars, but a few items are consistent: each person has a cama (bed), there are showers and WCs, a sink to wash your clothes, and often a small kitchen to prepare food. There are public and private albergues in most places, and a pilgrim can take their pick of lodging. Albergues generally don't open for the day's wave of pilgrims until after lunch, so should a pilgrim arrive early, they can line up their mochila (see below) outside the door and walk around until opening. Every morning, pilgrims arise early and are out the door by sunrise. Albergues are strictly for pilgrims and generally cost between 6 and 15 Euro a night. 

The ubiquitous (so far) bunk beds of albergues.

Breakfast Pilgrim style

Tortilla, or Spanish omelette, a slice of bread and cafe con leche are the desayuno (breakfast) items of choice along the Camino. In the early morning hours of a pilgrim's walk each day, there are no cafes or bars open, so usually a piece of bread or fruit from the day before is the early breakfast. Around mid morning, we stop in one of the little towns that frequent our walk and eat our pilgrim's breakfast. Muy delicioso!

Cena (Dinner)

Dinner in Larrasoana. French, German, Spanish, and English buzzes around the table. 

The evening pilgrim's meal is often served as a communal gathering. We have found ourselves surrounded by a chorus of languages (including the universal silent sign language), and new friends are to be had at every stop. Familiar faces from the Camino, pilgrims moving at generally the same pace as we, are seen at the family table. The pilgrim's meal is often a set 3 course meal with bread, water and wine, and so far has been quite accommodating for a vegetarian. 

Credencial del Peregrino

Everyday on the Camino, a pilgrim must receive a stamp in their credencial. Upon reaching Santiago, the credencial is presented at the Pilgrim Office, verified for stamps for each day (2 stamps per day for the last 100 km) and a Compostela is awarded to the worthy pilgrim. Each albergue, cafe, post office, police station, or any other place that cares to stamp a credencial, has their own unique stamp. Kelsey and I received our credencials before leaving America from the organization American Pilgrims on the Camino. I can't wait until my credencial is a tapestry of colorful stamps and memories.

Crosses, Churches and St. James

All along our path, from the Pyrenees to Santiago, there are crosses, Cathedrals and images of apostle St. James. On all of the crosses, from modern to ornate, gothic stone, tiny rocks are placed, symbols of a pilgrims burden. Images of St. James appear along El Camino, in which he holds a staff, bible, scallop shell and wearing a wide brined hat. Alternatively, we can also see images of his more war-like side, astride a white steed and wielding a sword against the Moors. The mostly gothic and romanesque architecture of the Cathedrals along the Way are beautiful and humbling in their testament to human faith over the centuries. 

Pilgrims crossing the bridge to Pamplona. 

Feet and Aches

A pilgrim must be deliberately conscious of their body. The body, with its balance of strength and vulnerability must be listened to and tended to. Every night, a pilgrim gently prods their feet searching for blisters. They stretch and massage their muscles relieving twinges of ache. At our disposal is a bevy of creams, tapes and tablets to ease any pain. The concern and care pilgrims express for each other is universal, aiding each other with advice and medicine each day and night along the Way. Luckily, neither Kelsey nor I have developed a blister, and our aches seem in keeping with long days of walking. As the physical toil of the Camino continues each day, we hope that our bodies will absorb the strain, becoming stronger and less burdened. 

Fountains

Potable water is available at the fountains littering the Camino. The fountains have been sources of life for pilgrims for hundreds of years and are a reminder of the long line of pilgrims that have come before us. 

Mochilas (Backpacks)

The mochila. A friendly burden, a loving strain. More times than I can count I have been asked, "cuantos kilos?" My pack is definitely bulkier and heavier than most everyone I have seen, but it seems perfect to me. Dave told us that if our mochila is not too heavy for you the first day, if you are not consumed with thoughts of what to ditch, than it is not too heavy. Strangely enough, I enjoy carrying my pack. It almost becomes part of me, sitting comfortably and giving me the sense of being a true pilgrim. I think I really might just carry this behemoth across Spain. 

Pilgrims

The beauty of the pilgrim. Brightly dressed, with straps, clothes and rain covers flying around them, they walk along El Camino. Singing, humming, praying, conversing, meditating, we express ourselves with each step. Some are friendlier than others, some more devout, others walk for a specific purpose, a few are lost or confused, and more still are jubilant and searching. Some are here to receive, others to give. But no matter what the various states of mind, we are all brought here, to walk together. 

Scallops

Blue and yellow scallop shell signs, yellow arrows, and cairns illuminate the Way. The markings are relatively easy to follow along wooded trails, but become slightly more difficult to navigate when passing through cities and towns. We are training our eyes to scan trees, rocks, buildings, streets and walls for the signs. So far we have not been led astray, or gotten lost. And, when in doubt, follow the pilgrim. 

How many arrows can you spot?

Trails, Highways and City Streets

The suburbs of Pamplona

Flowing in a line across Spain, pilgrims will come across many variations of a path. Sometimes El Camino winds through tranquil woods, other times alongside the roaring traffic of highways (be careful!), and other times on busy urban streets. Always keeping the yellow scallop shells as our guide, we walk across it all. Experiencing life at the pace of walking, nothing can move too quickly or be gone in the blink of an eye. 

At times, you have nothing more than the shoulder of a highway to walk on.