Walking the Napali

I love the Hawaiian islands! Three epic days of adventuring with Sus began Thursday morning when we started our trek into Kalalau Beach via the Napali coast hike on the island of Kauai. The 11 mile trek each way takes you along the north shore of Kauai and is one of only two ways to access Kalalau Beach and valley (the other is kayaking). We saw goats, passed two completely naked hikers ("Just two harmless naked dudes" - I couldn't stop laughing, and Sus couldn't stop nervously laughing), helped Eugene from Philly navigate the steep drop offs, and stood in abject wonder at the intense beauty that is the land. 

Coastline = breathtaking.

Sus along the sketchy mile stretch of steep drop offs. This section made me happy. 

Aloha ocean!

Making our steep and winding way through the wind sculpted grooves of the mountains, we were presented with unbelievable vistas. Each time we rounded the outer edge of a groove, we saw everything from a new perspective. 

For me there is a feeling that comes with walking on dirt, standing amongst trees, hearing the wind, smelling guava, being within nature. Combing this abstract feeling of the wholeness of nature - a feeling that has been romanticized (rightly so) by so many artists - with physical exertion, and a state of "nature-high" sets in. The lactic acid in my legs, the sweat and grime, the ache in my back and shoulders - it is divine! I slip into meditation, into a state of thinking on the enormity of it all. As Sus and I neared Kalalau beach, I began to slowly become overwhelmed with this feeling.

Final leg to Kalalau beach, the strip of sand tucked into the mountain valley.

Leaping the river that feeds into the ocean by the beach. 

Sunset on sand.

The fresh waterfall to shower or fill up water bottles. Goats like to send rocks scattering down though, so beware.

We promptly stripped down upon our arrival at the beach and made a beeline for the ocean. Within seconds of warning each other about possible undertows, I was pulled underneath, tossed around, coated in sand, slammed by a second wave and unceremoniously deposited on my belly onto the beach. So...enough of that. Passing the river on our way to the beach, we saw a few other hikers (and a couple residents of the beach) bathing and soaking in the fresh water. We walked the half mile back to the river, and laid on smooth stones under the cool rushing water, feeling as refreshed as I believe it is possible to feel. 

The bathing river by the "Cosmic Aloha" stones used as as a gathering place for locals. 

Exploring the beach we waited for the sunset and stars that were surely going to eclipse all past night skies. This enormous beach, untouched by any industrialization, is like a kept promise to yourself. As the sun began setting, I tried to start releasing the doubt, the disbelief, the worry that I carry along inside of me. I willed myself to be as present as possible, opening my senses to where I was and the hugeness of life started to carry itself up within me. I felt the uncomfortable vertigo feeling of the smallness of myself against so much grandeur and wonder in the world. It is an immense effort of will to get beyond this overwhelming feeling and to emerge on the other side of introspection, maybe understanding our place in the universe a little bit better. At some point that night, it all just became so big and I had to take a deep breath and come back into myself. 

That night, looking up at the most incredible night sky I have ever seen (even better than quiet nights at sea), the deep purple of space seemed even broader and deeper. I wish I could have captured that night sky, with its swirls and dustings of stars. 

Friday morning, Sus and I caught the middle of sunrise as we started the 11 mile trek out. It seemed the hills were even steeper, the path even narrower, but we completed the hike quickly (relatively) and promptly treated ourselves to cookies (me) and Haribo (Sus). This was an experience like no other, alongside my friend and buoyed by nature's gift of peace incarnate. 

Sunrise.

 

Daylight streaming in.