Exploring Kathmandu

It has quickly dawned on me that there is a steep learning curve for living in Kathmandu. These past two days have blurred in a vaguely overwhelming way as I try to ease into a place so unlike anything I have experienced. Traveling to Southeast Asia during my time in the Navy was a reasonable prelude to seeing life in a third world country, but actually living in one was something I couldn't have really prepared for. Despite feeling somewhat lost, both literally and figuratively, I am so grateful and happy to be here, challenging myself and exploring this world of ours.

The night I arrived, I slept a sad four hours, despite the red eye from the night before. Awaking yesterday morning I helped myself to a breakfast of fried potato balls, toast and tea from the hotel, and set out to shop around for a guide to Everest Base Camp. I visited four agencies (there are over 1,000 agencies in Nepal), trying to gather a sense of the personalities and experience of all four. It was like speed dating, asking what I thought were probing questions to get to the heart of the matter. I finally settled on Funny Nepal Treks and Expedition. Fani, the managing director, was polite, straightforward, quick to smile and immediately put me to ease. They have a great reputation, and their name didn't hurt in my bias. Due to our timeframe, we will be able to visit Gokyo Lakes on our way up to base camp. I am so pumped!

Wandering down the street to the Green Organic Cafe, I satisfied my craving for more tofu curry and rice. Sitting on their patio above the busy streets, watching the vibrancy of Thamel swirl past, it felt like an oasis of calm in the busy. After the slow and leisurely lunch, I strolled along, heading towards Swayambhunath, the Monkey Temple. 

Set above the city with sweeping vistas of Kathmandu nestled in the valley, it is a place that invites worship and admiration at the beautiful temples. Administering from above is the Buddhas eyes on top of the stupa. It's name, Monkey Temple, comes from the hundreds of holy monkeys that live amongst the shrines, supposedly descendants of the head lice of Manjushree. Climbing the steep 365 steps to the top, I saw monkeys in their swimming pool, tourists mingling with monks, beggars and offered money swirling around in the hot air. It was an eclectic cross section of life!

As I walked to Swayambhunath, a man started to walk next to me. This had happened quite a few times over the past days, and it's can be fairly difficult to shake some of them from your side. One even waited 30 minutes as I met with a trekking agency, and would have continued to follow me if I hadn't ducked into the Green Organic Cafe. Sumam, however, I had met the day before, as I was lost trying to find my way to my hotel. He had explained that he was a university student who volunteered at a home for disabled children, and he had wanted to show me a mural he was painting for them. I demurred when he showed me a dark entrance into an unmarked building that seemed devoid of children. But he was very polite and nice, so when he started walking with me again on the way to the Monkey a Temple, I didn't mind. He offered to walk with me and teach me about the Temple, for which I assumed I would pay him a certain amount. It helped to have a guide to navigate my way out of Thamel, and Sumam even took me off the regular route to experience more authentic Nepal. We walked past various shrines, and through back alleys where I am sure not many tourists go. 

Sumam is studying the humanities, and speaks excellent English and I was able to receive lessons on Hinduism, the current political situation, trekking, and the state of overcrowding and tourism in Kathmandu. 

It was a pleasant conversation, but I started to get a little suspicious after about the fifth time he brought up marriage between foreigners and Nepalese, his desire to receive an American visa, and many questions on my love life. When he went so far as to ask me if I could see myself marrying someone from Nepal, and if so, maybe him, I had had about enough. Parting ways he gave me his phone number and email. I was hoping to have simply made a friend, but I received the distinct impression I was being wooed (even though he took $15 from me). 

Returning to my hotel in the early evening, my exhaustion hit me, and I decided to forgo dinner for sleep. Reading through my favorite blog on living in Nepal, www.thelongestwayhome.com, I came across the author's wrap-up of life after months of living here. One section seemed particularly relevant: "It's well known that many Nepalese men will actively pursue single woman of all ages from abroad. Not only is there prestige in having a "foreign" girlfriend. There's a clear route to financial stability and a passport to a new life." Right...

Slipping into bed, my stomach, unfortunately, had other plans, and I passed a restless night as my system clashed with Nepalese food. I have tried my utmost to be careful, eating at reputable looking places, and not drinking any tap water. I did however, eat salad and accidentally brushed my teeth with faucet water, but I figure a weird stomach comes with the territory. As long as it is less intense than my sickness on El Camino, I feel like I can deal with this minor nuisance.

This morning I woke and headed to meet with Uttam from Animal Nepal in Chovar. On my map, Chovar looked deceptively close, but the hotel front desk quickly convinced me I would never make it on foot. Even in the cab, it took 45 minutes of insane traffic to make it. The traffic here is unlike any I have ever seen before, even Italy or Guatemala can't compare. Cars, trucks, vans, buses and motorcycles all converge at impossible angles, vying for any advantage or empty space. The swarm of pedestrians crossing wherever is convenient only serve to congest the roads even more. The three cows I saw laying in the middles of the street seemed to be the only thing that slowed anyone down. Barreling along, heading straight into on-coming traffic, my taxi swerved at the last second to avoid head on collisions. Any sort of traffic scheme or sign is pointedly ignored. Yet, there is no road rage, and people strike up conversations with each other as they sit in stopped traffic, smiling and waving as they lay on their horn. 

Animal Nepal has three locations, the administration office, dog shelter and donkey shelter. I visited the dog shelter to meet Uttam, and immediately saw a dozen dogs I would want to adopt. It is set in a quieter part of Kathmandu down a dirt path. This shelter is for sick or wounded dogs, as well as dogs brought in to be neutered or spayed. A little of newborn puppies, their eyes not even opened, were wiggling around in a crate as their mother gently growled at any passing dog. Rollicking puppies bunched around my feet, crying for attention. Uttam was incredibly nice and introduced me to the staff that runs the shelter. I discussed with him my hopes for my time volunteering as well as some of the logistics of living in a Kathmandu. Upon my return from the trek, I will be in contact with him to begin my volunteer work and settle in to a guesthouse in Chovar.

The Most Dangerous Animal of the World

Emily arrives in a few hours and I will be at the airport to greet her. I am so looking forward to having such a wonderful (and hilarious) friend on the trek. The mountain has fixed itself in my dreams, and I cannot wait to see her with my own eyes. Tuesday we will begin our trek and the realization of something long in my heart.